Relearning Travel: The Challenges and Joys of Exploring with a Child

I recently made a trip to Dharamkot, Himachal Pradesh. Several times during my trip, I found myself reflecting: What exactly does travel give me? Why do I crave new places even when traveling with a toddler makes things so difficult? This time, it felt even harder—my son was unwell, refusing to engage, and resisting even the smallest activities. Travel, which once felt like a breath of fresh air, now felt like another set of responsibilities. And yet, despite the challenges, Dharamkot gifted me something invaluable—a fresh perspective on self-discovery, patience, taking things slow and one day at a time.

Through Twisting Roads and Tantrums: Reaching Dharamkot

Our journey began on March 14th with a mix of excitement and trepidation. We left from Ahmedabad to Amritsar early in the morning, boarding a 9:15 AM flight. My son, Aayu, was unusually calm, sitting quietly with his favourite Thomas books. While other children in the flight created a lively chaos, he remained subdued—a bittersweet moment of pride and concern for me.

Reaching Amritsar by noon, we checked into our hotel after a delicious Punjabi lunch. The city’s charm quickly took over as we explored Jallianwala Bagh and the serene Golden Temple in the evening. The peaceful aura of the temple was mesmerizing; despite the heavy crowd, a sense of tranquility prevailed. Even Aayu, usually restless, sat with folded hands in silent admiration. These moments of stillness amidst a chaotic journey felt like little miracles.

The next morning, we set out for Dharamkot, 213 kilometers away. What was supposed to be a five-hour journey turned into a grueling nine-hour ordeal due to terrible roads and heavy traffic in the hills. The first part of the drive, from Amritsar to Pathankot, was smooth and uneventful, with vast green fields on either side and a cool breeze hinting at the mountains ahead. But as we neared the hills, the roads began to wind and twist, and the traffic thickened.

With each passing hour, exhaustion set in. Aayu, already battling fever, was irritable and uncomfortable. Stopping frequently for tea breaks, we tried to keep him engaged, but the discomfort of long travel was evident. As we ascended towards McLeodganj, the roads became steeper, and the sharp curves made even the most enthusiastic travelers uneasy. A sudden landslide in one of the stretches halted us for an hour, adding to the frustration. We sat in the car, watching locals effortlessly navigate the chaos while our patience wore thin.

Our driver, tired from the long journey, was losing patience with the relentless honking and unpredictable road conditions. We could hear his occasional sighs and mumbled complaints, which only added to the tension. My husband and I exchanged exhausted glances, wondering if we had made a mistake bringing Aayu along.

As we finally neared Dharamkot, the temperature shock was real—Ahmedabad had been 40°C, Amritsar 21°C, and Dharamkot a chilling 3°C. Rushing to our hostel, we finally settled in, desperate for warmth, rest, and a strong drink (for my husband, at least!). Despite the fatigue, as I stood on the balcony of our homestay, breathing in the crisp mountain air, I felt a small sense of relief. We had made it.

Cafés, Trails, and Tranquility

Nestled in the hills above McLeodganj, Dharamkot is a peaceful retreat for backpackers, spiritual seekers, and slow travelers. The air carries the scent of fresh pine, and cafes are filled with soft melodies, quiet conversations, and steaming cups of coffee. Despite Aayu’s condition, we managed to explore some of its most charming spots.

Scenic Spots That Took My Breath Away

1. Naddi View Point – A short drive from Dharamkot, this viewpoint offered a breathtaking panoramic view of the Dhauladhar range. The crisp air, golden hues of the setting sun, and the quiet serenity of the place made it one of my favorite stops. Aayu, despite his low energy, was momentarily fascinated by the endless mountains and the cool breeze against his face.
2. Saint John’s Church – We also covered this place as part of sightseeing in McLeodganj. It was a beautiful, green, peaceful place with Gothic-style architecture, surrounded by tall deodar trees that added to its charm. The historic significance of the church, built in 1852, and its tranquil environment made it a perfect spot for quiet reflection.

Cafés and Eateries That Stole My Heart

1. Trek and Dine – Perfect for unwinding with a book, the warm ambiance and wood-fired pizzas made it one of our favorite spots.
2. Laasa Café – A hidden gem with cozy interiors and a warm, welcoming vibe. A charming spot offering a mix of Tibetan and Indian flavors, where we enjoyed delicious thukpa and momos while soaking in the peaceful surroundings.
3. Buddha Delite Café – a small cozy cafe where we enjoyed our morning delights of coffee and hot chocolate. 
4. Ama Laping – Right outside the temple, we found a small local stall selling steaming hot momos and lapings. The momos were bursting with flavor, perfectly paired with a spicy chutney, while the lapings—a Tibetan delicacy—were a refreshing, slightly tangy dish that added a unique taste to our culinary experiences in Dharamkot.

Dharamkot’s laid-back energy and these cozy cafes were exactly what I needed to feel grounded again.

Traveling with a Toddler: The Challenges and the Perks

Traveling with a 3.5-year-old is an emotional rollercoaster. When he’s happy, his giggles fill the air, making the journey magical. But when he’s unwell or cranky, everything feels ten times harder.

Challenges:

• Managing meals and nap schedules on the go.
• Limited time for personal exploration.
• Unexpected tantrums, especially in unfamiliar places.

Perks:

• Seeing the world through his eyes—every butterfly, every colorful shop becomes a moment of wonder.
• A slower pace that allows for deeper experiences.
• The joy of creating lifelong family memories.

How Travel Heals the Mind

Even in the midst of exhaustion, I realized why I keep chasing travel. It offers a shift in perspective.

1. Breaks the Routine – Travel disrupts daily monotony, forcing us to adapt and embrace the unknown.
2. Boosts Resilience – Managing unexpected hurdles teaches patience and adaptability.
3. Encourages Reflection – Being away from home allows for introspection.
4. Fosters Gratitude – Watching the simple, slow life of the locals made me appreciate both the chaos and comforts of my own life.

Final Thoughts: Was It Worth It?

Many times during the trip, I questioned whether traveling with a toddler was worth the trouble. But as I reflect now, I realize it absolutely was. It was not a relaxing vacation, but it was a meaningful one. The exhaustion, the adjustments, and the fleeting moments of joy all stitched together…